2009 Celler Cal Pla Black Slate Porrera

Posted by Chrish Peel on 7/10/2012 to Wine Reviews (All)
Now this one presents an interesting conundrum. (Which Webster’s defines as “a question or problem having only a conjectural answer.”) The question being: Is the 2009 Cellar Cal Pla Porrera that Parker rated 96 points – his top Spanish and top Eric Solomon score in his latest issue (and thus the wine everybody wants) – Cal Pla’s 2009 “Black Slate” bottling, which is labeled “Porrera,” or their 2009 Tinto, which is simply labeled “Red Priorat Wine”? 

Not that it should matter…but I suspect some people might find “a conjectural answer” here less than satisfying. 

On the one hand, the name “Porrera” is on the “Black Slate” bottling, but not the Tinto. And Parker did give the 2010 “Black Slate” Porrera 93 points – which would make 96 points for the supercharged 2009 vintage (especially strong in this coolest of Priorat villages) just about right. Plus his price quote of $25 fits this wine, too. (The 2009 Tinto was in fact previously reviewed, earning 89 points with a $40 price quote. The 2009 “Black Slate” Porrera had not been reviewed.) But the technical details he gave seem more in line with the Tinto. 

Of course, the 2009 “Black Slate” Porrera has the highest rating for any of the Black Slate wines from the IWC, which said: “Intense blackberry, cassis and licorice on the nose. Powerful and densely packed, with a structured impression to its dark cherry, black fruits and spices. Finishes weighty, sweet and long, with silky tannins and an echo of licorice.” (Which is pretty much how Parker described his 96-point Cal Pla “Porrera” wine, too).  

The International Wine Review also rated this the best “Black Slate” yet, calling it “a superb wine with a brilliant future.” In fact, they rated it by far their best Priorat wine ever at its price... $25, the same price as the wine Parker reviewed. (The average price of the Priorats with this score was $72).   

But is this a Parker 96-pointer? Frankly, I can’t tell – though it certainly seems likely. (Of course, I’m sure the lack of definitiveness will frustrate some consumers…after all, are they supposed to like this wine or not?) But what I can tell you – definitively now – is it deserves to be…because we put that one to the test. 

So we figured the best way to determine just how good this wine is was to have our customers taste it blind beside the Parker 94-point 2010 Mas Romani “Black Slate” la Vilella Alta (a really good wine, too – now, alas, sold out)…and see which one they preferred. 

Almost everyone who tasted them felt both wines were outstanding. And both are…but over 80% preferred the Cal Pla “Porrera.” While the Mas Romani was more purple and perhaps more structured, the Cal Pla was deep, almost opaque red-black, with incredibly deep, rich, sweet and expansive (classic ancient-vine Priorat) mouth-filling flavors. More than one customer, in fact, commented on just how shockingly rich this wine was, especially after its initially rather shy aromatics. 

Now granted, a few tasters wondered what they’d pair with such a huge, unctuous red. (Always an issue.) But most were just flat-out blown away by how sumptuous it was. 

Certainly, if the Mas Romani’s a 94-point wine (and it deserves to be), this Cal Pla “Black Slate” Porrera is easily a 96. At least that’s what our customers say. And though it does cost us a bit more, we’re holding our Sale price here to $19.99…while it lasts. Even a probable Parker 96 (which he says tastes like a $100 wine) for only $20 won’t be around for long!

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